Rock Climbing - 攀岩

The karst scenery that attracts so many tourists to Yangshuo is ideal for rock-climbing too. The heavily-eroded limestone offers wonderful settings as well as a wide range of hand and foot holds. The sheer variety that is available is enough to tempt any climber here, and many do find it hard to leave again.

Todd Skinner started it all back in 1992. Most famously, he climbed the arch of Moon Hill (Moonwalker - graded 5.13), a feat rarely repeated.

Yangshuo now gets a guidebook all of it's own. This contains over 200 routes and is available locally. Most are single-pitch sport routes but the trend is now towards longer multi-pitch routes. There is very little traditional climbing at present - so the potential is huge for anyone who can manage to get their gear over.

There are several rock-climbing operators in town. Standards vary and it is worth getting local advice, especially if you are a total beginner. At least ask about about qualifications and take a look at how the equipment is stored. Ropes are your lifeline, and should be treated with total respect at all times. Walk away if you see these tossed casually on the floor. You should be provided with a helmet, and should wear it, especially at the bottom of the crag where loose bits of stone tend to get knocked down.

Beginners are welcome, and well-catered for. Instruction can be given, and suitable crags chosen for pretty much any age and level of fitness. Give it a go. You may end up taking up rock-climbing back home.

Where to go climbing

Wine Bottle

Wine Bottle is the most popular Guiding crag in town as it offers a large selection of quality routes, from 5.6 to 5.11d. Located only 5 minutes drive from town, Wine Bottle is a short walk from main road access. The rock is nearly vertical and routes are generally more technical than strenuous. As of November 2008 there are 29 bolted sport routes at the crag.

The Egg

The Egg is a picturesque and easily accessable karst tower that presents three faces of quality sport climbing routes. As the three faces face different directions it is possible to climb here all day and avoid the midday sun. The base of all three faces provides a solid and relatively safe belay areas. The Egg is popular for having a large variety of routes - 37 at last count - from 5.9 to 5.12d. There are also a number of multi-pitch routes that afford stunning views of the surrounding karst landscape.

Baby Frog

Baby Frog is a great alternative to Wine Bottle if you are looking for a variety of easier 5.8 and 5.9 routes at a location relatively close to Yangshuo. Located behind a small village, Baby Frog is a favourite for beginner and intermediate climbers. Best climbed in the morning shade, Baby Frog has 16 routes from 5.7 up to 5.10d. when the sun hits the face of the rock, around 1pm, it's only a short walk down to the Dragon river for a swim or to Pam's Cooking School nearby. If you're planning on going with a group to Baby Frog it's a good idea to check with the local Guiding companies to see if they will be using the crag with clients the following day.

White Mountain

White Mountain is Yangshuo's mecca for visiting 'harder grade' climbers and really is a must for anyone climbing above 5.10b. This 200m long, 60m high overhanging cliff is a spectacle to see and demands respect for it's sheer resemeblance to a giant limestone wave sweeping through the karst countryside. Due to the overhanging nature of the crag the climbing is quiet physical and sustained. The crag faces south and takes sun all day - in saying this, thanks to the overhanging nature of the rock the base is shaded for the majority of the day and relatively dry during the rain. As of November 2008 there are 42 routes at White Mountain ranging from 5.10a to China's current hardest sport route - 'Chinaclimb' a sustained 5.14b epic. As directions before heading out as sometimes finding the crag can be tricky. In the past few months there have also been incidents of farmers demanding money from visting climbers - please notify Chinaclimb if this happens to you.

Twin Gate

A great little crag that can be tricky to find - but well worth the effort for the excellent quality of rock and routes. Twin Gate offers a solid variety of routes in a stunning location minutes from Banyan Tree Crag and Moon Hill Crag. At last count there are 16 routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.12d/13a. Watch your valuables at this cliff - things have gone missing while large groups of locals and tourists have been hanging around watching climbers in action.

Moon Hill

Moon Hill is an iconic image of Yangshuo and easily viewed from the Yangshuo/Gaotian road. Resembling it's name, Moon Hill is a huge spherical hole in a karst mountain, the base of which can be accessed along a 45 minute stone trail starting at the park entrance gates. Views from the summit of Moon Hill over the Yangshuo countryside are stunning. Moon Hill was the first climbing site developed in the area by Todd Skinner back in 1990. Since those humble beginnings Moon Hill has attracted some of the world's leading climbers and develped a large number of quality routes to match. The rock and features are excellent with climbs varying from vertical, to overhanging to ridiculously overhanging. At last count there are 23 routes at Moon Hill, starting at 5.9 and topping out at the 5.14a rated 'Sea of Tranquility'. The majority of routes are in the 5.11 - 5.12 range.

The Thumb

The 5 pitch climb 'Happy New Year' really is a must for visting climbers and multi-pitch enthusiasts. This 5.9, 5.8, 5.9, 5.9, 5.10b climb to the summit of a 150m high karst tower is a classic climb that is a rewarding way to spend half day out on a route. At the base of the Thumb are a number of other fun routes, 12 to be exact, that provide a good warm up location or a day's climbing in themselves. The Thumb is half way between Wine Bottle and Moon Hill and easily accessed by bike or local bus from Yangshuo.

Low Mountain

Worth a quick mention here - Low Mountain is the crag of choice in torrential rain and the majority of the 14 routes at this crag stay dry even in the heaviest of down-pours. The cliff is a 5 minute walk from the road and it's best to take a local taxi to the crag as it's very easy to get lost finding this site on a bike. Routes range from 5.9 to 5.11a with the majority of climbing in the 5.10 range. There is still a lot of potential at Low Mountian for new routes.